The Fiero Factory Tech Archive

Answer: Several ideas. Did you really run out of gas? Have you looked to see if there was a fuel spray from the injector when the engine was cranking? Does the fuel pump run (you can hear it by listening at the inlet)? Is there spark when the ignition coil wire is removed when cranking the engine? If not, some part of the ignition has failed.

If you ran out of gas, did the car backfire? That could shear some of the camshaft gear teeth. Easy way to check is to remove the oil fill cap and see if the valve rocker arms are moving.

Have you cycled the ignition switch. On...off for 10 sec/s, on...off for 10 sec's....(about 5 times) to reprime the fuel system? Just adding fuel and turning the switch to start will not fill the fuel lines if they are empty.

Answer: You need to prime the fuel system. This is done on any Fiero by switching the key on (not cranking) for 5 seconds. Then switch off for 10-20 seconds. Then on.....then off. About 5-6 timed cycles.

The electric pump will purge the air through the injectors and then begin injecting fuel.

Answer: Several ideas. Did you really run out of gas? Have you looked to see if there was a fuel spray from the injector when the engine was cranking? Does the fuel pump run (you can hear it by listening at the inlet)? Is there spark when the ignition coil wire is removed when cranking the engine? If not, some part of the ignition has failed.

If you ran out of gas, did the car backfire? That could shear some of the camshaft gear teeth. Easy way to check is to remove the oil fill cap and see if the valve rocker arms are moving.

Have you cycled the ignition switch. On...off for 10 sec/s, on...off for 10 sec's....(about 5 times) to reprime the fuel system? Just adding fuel and turning the switch to start will not fill the fuel lines if they are empty.

Answer: You need to prime the fuel system. This is done on any Fiero by switching the key on (not cranking) for 5 seconds. Then switch off for 10-20 seconds. Then on.....then off. About 5-6 timed cycles.

The electric pump will purge the air through the injectors and then begin injecting fuel.

Answer: You can do a "laymans" check of the fuel pressure by the following. Remove the cap from the schrader valve on the fuel rail. It is just before the fuel rails disappear under the upper pleneum, right behind the thermostat housing. Takes a finger from each hand as there is not enough room for a thumb and finger. Sorta looks like a large tire valve cap.

When it is removed, cycle the key 5 sec on, 10 off, about 4-5 times. You have to lean directly over the valve (looks like a tire air valve) to see it. Position a key or something to depress the schrader valve and then move your head away and press it down. A high pressure squirt of fuel should hit the bottom of the decklid (the reason for moving your head). 6-12" should run the car, but anything else will not.

Replace the fuel filter and recheck. If still no pressure, then plan on replacing the fuel pump. Even if ECM or relay will not turn the pump on, the oil pressure sender will as soon as 4 lbs pressure is achieved, and it will stay on to run the car. You should also check (immediately after the engine shuts off) to see if you have ignition spark. Removing the coil wire at the coil and turning the engine over should produce a spark from the coil tower to the metal magnet of the coil. If not, then something in the ignition is bad. Pick-up coil, module, module to coil pigtail, or coil.

New parts can be faulty. You need to ascertain if you have spark and fuel pressure. This does not sound like a faulty sensor.

Answer: Several ideas. Did you really run out of gas? Have you looked to see if there was a fuel spray from the injector when the engine was cranking? Does the fuel pump run (you can hear it by listening at the inlet)? Is there spark when the ignition coil wire is removed when cranking the engine? If not, some part of the ignition has failed.

If you ran out of gas, did the car backfire? That could shear some of the camshaft gear teeth. Easy way to check is to remove the oil fill cap and see if the valve rocker arms are moving.

Have you cycled the ignition switch. On...off for 10 sec/s, on...off for 10 sec's....(about 5 times) to reprime the fuel system? Just adding fuel and turning the switch to start will not fill the fuel lines if they are empty.

Answer: You need to prime the fuel system. This is done on any Fiero by switching the key on (not cranking) for 5 seconds. Then switch off for 10-20 seconds. Then on.....then off. About 5-6 timed cycles.

The electric pump will purge the air through the injectors and then begin injecting fuel.

Answer: You can do a "laymans" check of the fuel pressure by the following. Remove the cap from the schrader valve on the fuel rail. It is just before the fuel rails disappear under the upper pleneum, right behind the thermostat housing. Takes a finger from each hand as there is not enough room for a thumb and finger. Sorta looks like a large tire valve cap.

When it is removed, cycle the key 5 sec on, 10 off, about 4-5 times. You have to lean directly over the valve (looks like a tire air valve) to see it. Position a key or something to depress the schrader valve and then move your head away and press it down. A high pressure squirt of fuel should hit the bottom of the decklid (the reason for moving your head). 6-12" should run the car, but anything else will not.

Replace the fuel filter and recheck. If still no pressure, then plan on replacing the fuel pump. Even if ECM or relay will not turn the pump on, the oil pressure sender will as soon as 4 lbs pressure is achieved, and it will stay on to run the car. You should also check (immediately after the engine shuts off) to see if you have ignition spark. Removing the coil wire at the coil and turning the engine over should produce a spark from the coil tower to the metal magnet of the coil. If not, then something in the ignition is bad. Pick-up coil, module, module to coil pigtail, or coil.

New parts can be faulty. You need to ascertain if you have spark and fuel pressure. This does not sound like a faulty sensor.

Answer: The long answer to a short "it won't start question".

Since it is virtually impossible for an in-tank electric pump to "vapor lock", you first need to determine if you have fuel pressure.

The 4 cyl Fiero's do not have a fitting to attach a gauge, and the special tool that does is quite expensive.

But a quick "home" check can be done as follows: cycle the key several times (on for 2 secs....off for 10, then on again, and repeat) to build up pressure. Then, immediately crack the fuel line where it enters the fuel filter (on drs side of all yrs). A "halo" mist should come out. If not, then the fuel pump is not building pressure.

If you get a mist (not a drip), wipe/blow off any fuel that got on the ignition parts (or wait for at least an hour). Then with the air cleaner assembly off, observe if the injector is pulsing fuel when the engine is cranked. If not, the most likely cause is a bad fusible link that powers that portion of the ECM.

If fuel is being pulsed into the TBI, then you need to find out if you have spark and/or timing.

You can remove the oil filler cap, have the engine cranked, and see if the rockers are moving. If not, the cam gear has stripped some teeth and must be replaced.

You can remove the coil wire from the coil tower, have the engine cranked, and watch for a spark to run down the coil to ground. If no spark, most likely is a bad ignition module, but could be a bad coil or pickup coil.

You will need to do some testing before deciding whether or not to discard the car. Remember, it has already run for 19 years, and with good maintenance and some normally worn parts replacement, might very well run for another (fun) 19 years.

Answer: The cost is $43 for the chemical kit. One part disolves carbon on pistons and valves. Goes in tank. 1/2 can for a full Fiero tank. One part disolves oil residue in the throttle/intake from the EGR system. Sprayed through throttle housing.

One part disolves fuel "gum" in the fuel lines and injectors. Goes in tank. 1/2 can for a full Fiero tank.

Both carbon and fuel cleaner can be used at the same time, and the second 1/2 can should be used at the next fill up.

Overall, engine should run MUCH better after using the kit.

We accept credit cards if that helps.

Let me know and thanks for asking.

Answer: There are basically two potential problems with any clutch system. 1st is "no pull" and 2nd is no disengagement. "No pull" is always mechanical, and is usually the disc worn down or the friction material missing. Requires replacement. Smart thing is to also replace the plate and the release bearing, since it is so much work to remove the transaxle. Worn disc is caused by long term use (slippage), abusive use(slippage), or a mechanical malfunction (slippage), which would be: release bearing shaft binding in its bushings, or release bearing binding on its slide collar. Both conditions result in a partially applied plate that allows slippage (wear). All clutch replacements should include inspection/correction of these conditions, or premature wear will happen. No disengagement is trickier, since this can be caused by hydraulic or mechanical malfunction. Start at the begining, the pedal. It should be an inch higher then the brake. If not, then look for the standoff bracket (the squared U riveted to the pedal) to be bent. Use will bend it toward the center and toward the rear of the car (away from the clutch master cylinder). You need this inch for a full hydraulic push of fluid. This bracket can very often be bent back into shape with a large set of channel lock pliers. Much maligned pedal is seldom bent. If there is slack at the top of the pedal, until resistance is felt, then there is also not enough push. This is usually caused by the master cylinder groument missing, or the pushrod being bent. Make sure pushrods offset hole is in the "up" position. While in this area (upside down on the drivers floor), pull the master cyl boot loose and check for any moisture. If any is found, then master cylinder rear seal is leaking. Replace it, unless you want a 50/50 chance on rebuilding it. Bench bleed before installing. If all is OK, then slowly have the clutch pedal depressed, while watching the resevoir fluid (cap off). If fluid level rises any at all, then check valve in master cylinder is allowing some pressure to bypass, and you will not have a full disengagement. This completes the mechanical and hydraulic inspection at the front.

In the rear, clear area above the slave cylinder of air intake tubes. Have the clutch slowly depressed again. Some movement of the slave cylinder is normal, but you are looking for two things. Broken mounting bracket, and length of pushrod stroke. (At this point we have removed oil pump drive shafts, drum brake adjusters, valve pushrods, various modified bolts, and a piece of broomstick, all in an attempt to get the last 1/16 of stroke.) Stroke should be at least 15/16". 7/8 will not allow full release. We measure this with the pedal depressed, tape measure against clutch lever, then read tape measure "backwards" as pedal is released. Do this several times, as it is easy for tape to slip. If measurement is good, then so are hydraulics. If not, then pull slave cylinder boot loose to check for moisture. If found, replace slave cylinder, or the 50/50 rebuild rule applies here also. If no moisture is found at the front or rear, you can reasonably expect that someone has replaced a unit, and not done a "proper" bleeding. But, wait a minute! 84-86 4 spd and 5 spd Fiero's (except 86 getrag) were delivered with a stamped steel clutch lever that has a plastic block that the slave cylinder pushrod pushes against to rotate the release bearing shaft. This lever can crack where it is clamped to the shaft, and the plastic block can "push through". Many expensive clutch jobs have been done, when only this lever was the cause of" no disengagement". Replacements, 87-88, and all getrags are cast. Further disengagement problems will be inside the bellhousing, and require removing the transaxle. On 4 spd cars, a broken/bent release bearing fork will usually make much noise and make the clutch pedal feel as though it has a brick under it. It could be on 4 spds and will be on both 5 spds, a broken disc dampner spring, that has a piece lodged in the plate release springs, that make it feel that you are pushing against a brick. This completes mechanical and hydraulic inspection in the back.

Our bleeding procedure is not found in Clymer, Chilton, Haynes, or Helms (Pontiac) service manuals. Therefore, must not be authorized, but has worked without fail for over 10 years. Jack car from front about 1 foot (until master cyl is above height of slave). Remove resevoir cap. Open (not remove) bleeder on slave cyl. Gravity feed 1/2 pint of hydraulic (brake) fluid. If gravity doesn't start fluid movement, SLOWLY depress clutch pedal until fluid starts to move. After 1/2 pint has gone through system, close bleeder. Needle nosed vise grips work best (especially 6 cyl, which may require removal of slave cyl from bracket). Clamp vise grip pliers to slave cyl pushrod. Pull pushrod into the barrel of the slave cyl, while at the same time "cracking" the bleeder. The bleeder is at the wrong end of all three different slave cylinders. Air can be trapped at the end where the pushrod is, and must be pulled to the bleed valve. Check resevoir after first "pull" (can be nearly empty). We repeat this 5 times, or until no more bubbles appear. After 6 times, if there is still a bubble, Start over at the clutch pedal. Step 1, along time ago. Caution: do not shave (cut, machine) the flywheel. Hydraulic clutch systems typically have 0 to .003 clearence between the face of the release bearing and the fingers on the clutch plate. Removing material from the flywheel will move the plate that much further away from the release bearing, perhaps causing a non-release condition. Remanufactured clutches will usually have as much as 1/16" variation in the height of the plate fingers. Also resulting in a non-release condition. If the release bearing fork is too worn, then the same applies. Hydraulic clutch systems are called self adjusting, because they can only move a predetermined amount of fluid. The spring pressure of the plate will override the hydraulic pressure, so, extending the slave cyl pushrod length will not "adjust" the system.

Answer: This from an original post to a V6 owner, with additional notes from Vic Tapscott, a 4 cyl owner, added in.

You don't have to drop the engine and cradle to remove the transaxle. You are going to cock the cradle and remove the transaxle from under the left lower frame rail. No need to unwire the engine or even drain the coolant. However, you WILL need a special tool to make it easier.............a piece of 2X4 about 8" long! Also, jackstands and a floor jack.
Do the following from the top. Disconnect the battery, take the "S" air inlet tube off and detach the dogbone from either end. Remove the slave and it's heat shield and mount bracket, leave the line attached, and hang it out of the way. Take the shift cables, back up light, and VSS connections loose. Remove the exhaust crossover bolts to manifold and heat shields, disconnect the EGR valve pipe from the adapter (carefully or it WILL crack, may anyway). After getting the car on jackstands, remove the starter to get the dustshield off. Then replace the starter (important part of the trick). On the drivers side remove wheel well, break the tierod from the spindle, remove the pinch bolt from the ball joint, take the emergency cable off the caliper, remove the caliper or the hydraulic line (we do that and bleed later), the three strut bolts from inside the engine compartment. and then using a prybar, "pop" the axle out of the trans. This allows removing the entire left suspension including the axle (except lower control arm) as a unit without messing up alignment when reinstalled and it leaves a "clean" space for the trans to come through.

Place floor jack (with piece of flat wood) under the engine oil pan for support/slight lift. Remove trans mounts and BRACKETS. Lower engine/trans onto "Special Tool 2X4" placed between starter and engine cradle. Remove select cable bracket. Removing the various brackets gives less possibilities of catching the trans on anything. Then place floor jack under the rear of cradle and remove the cradle bolts on pass side rear, and drs side front and rear. Lower jack until necessary trans clearance is attained. This will kink the coolant hose but no harm should happen as the necessary clearance is just before that point. Remove bellhousing bolts (remembering where the studded ones are, and that the lowest one toward the trunk is from the pass side). If you do not have enough clearance to remove the bolts, then remove the exhaust crossover from the downpipe. Remove trans axle. Should take about 1 1/2-2 1/2 hours. You will need an extra hand to reinstall. That is used to guide the pass axle into the trans. Should take 2-3 hrs. Suggest you remove the clutch and inspect. Also remove the flywheel and reseal the cam cover (use black RTV, not a gasket). Rear main seal if leaking.

This is basically what is required to change a clutch in 84-87 Fieros.. In the case of the imput bearing/release bearing collar has snapped off the Getrag 5 spd at the bellhousing, if so, "Proper" way is to split the trans case and drive the bearing out from the inside. Rodney has the necessary pages, for only a few $, from the Pontiac manual explaining how to split the 5 spd case (88 was the only manual with instructions). "Improper" way is to carefully cut the remaining bearing out with a dremel tool, flush the trans several times, and install a new imput bearing, all from the outside. Either way will take several hours. NOTE: With the 88 cradle being hard mounted, it will not tip. It has to be rotated from both front attaching bolts. This requires the removal of both rear strut assemblies. The lateral links can be left on the cradle (similar to a control arm) and will be out of the way. Special Tool "2X4" is still the key. The engine wiring (not the ground strap attached to the trunk hinge, take that loose) and hoses have just enough slack to allow rotating the engine until it is nearly touching the trunk wall. That will give sufficient clearance to remove the trans.

Answer: Yes it can, but you will need an additional person due to it's size and weight. Also, you will want to disconnect the torque convertor from the flexplate before pulling it. The convertor comes out with the trans. When reinstalling, make sure the torque convertor is seated in the front pump drive and stays there during the wiggling that will be necessary.

Answer: Fiero's have 4 cycle engines and they will stop on one of those cycles. When the starter is next engaged, more wear will occur in one of those 4 places (whichever position the engine stopped). Over a period of time, all four spots will eventually wear more then the rest of the flywheel teeth. Here's the crayon - it's basic black, but hope understandable.

Cycle 1: intake valve opens and piston moves down to the bottom of cylinder. Suction and atmospheric pressure pulls/pushes air/fuel into length of the cylinder.

Cycle 2: intake valve closes as piston rises and compresses the air/fuel into the small area of the combustion chamber (making it much more volatile).

Cycle 3. spark plug ignites the compressed mixture and the explosion powers the piston back down.

Cycle 4. exhaust valve opens as the piston comes back up to let the burnt gases out, and the intake opens again to start the cycle over again.

These are called intake, compression, power, and exhaust strokes. No matter how many cylinders the engine has, it will always stop on one of these strokes (last firing cyl). Hence, there will be more wear on 1 of 4 spots on a flywheel's teeth. An oil soaked flywheel can only be determined if the transaxle has been removed, and is only revelant if a clutch disc is involved and is "shuddering".

Otherwise, an engine oil leak is just that. An oil leak. Has NOTHING to do with the starter and flywheel spacing/engagement/wear. Normal wear (engine cycles), and improper starter installation (shimming/spacing) are the cause for flywheel teeth wear and a lot of failed starters. Suggest you find a shop that has at least basic knowledge of how engines work, and the relationship of how parts (in this case, starters and flywheels) are interrelated to one another. Flywheel teeth deterioation is possible from normal wear or a previous improperly spaced/shimmed starter, but "oil soaked" is pure BS.

Answer: Head gaskets can deteriorate or "blow" anywhere. Since the entire outer area of a head and block is a water jacket, if the gasket deteriorates toward the outside area, there may be no coolant entering the combustion chamber (causing steam from the tail pipe/water on the plugs) or a "milkshake" in the oil pan.

Head gasket replacement is fairly simple on a Fiero 4 cyl. Disconnect exhaust manifold from down pipe. Disconnect fuel lines, cables, vacuum lines, water hoses, "dogbone", and electrical connections from intake side.

Remove valve cover and head bolts. Pry head loose and remove with exhaust and intake manifolds attached.

New head bolts are advised, but usually clean threads/used bolts torqued sequentially to 94 lb ft will be OK. Even the 87-88 heads (torque plus "stretch") will seal at 94 lb ft.

Answer: Not really, as that won't give access to those possible problems. But, it would be wise to clean out the gear debris. It Can/Will clog up the oil pump screen leading to major engine failure.

It is not normal for the cam bearings to seize or spin. Timing gears fail due to them also being a vibration "damper" for crankshaft harmonics and being fiber against steel. 88 gears seem to last much longer due to the crankshaft balance shafts built into their oil pump assembly (but the shafts can break).

Cam retainer most likely broke upon initial gear removal (it is fragile). Inspect by removing the gear. If camshaft moves back into the block more then about 1/8th inch, it is probable the freeze plug in the bellhousing has moved/been driven out. That means the trans axle needs to be removed for verification (or start the engine and watch for a large oil leak).

Answer: Your Haynes manual is for the 4 spd. It does not cover the last 2000 86 V6's equipped with the 5 spd. Unfortunately, only the shift cable is adjustable on the Getrag. It seldom stretches, breaks, or "freezes" up. It's the cable that goes over the tranaxle and controls the fore and aft moving shift lever. If any/all the gears for forward shift lever movement 1-3-5 and those for rear movement 2-4-R engage, it will be adjusted OK. If either group don't completely engage all the way in gear, then place the shifter itself in neutral and the trans lever also. Adjust until you have a good neutral. Thats about all that can be done. Most Getrag shifting problems are caused by the select lever (up and down lever on the trans) not aligning the internal shift forks. Bad select cable or lever pivot pin/bushing are the usual cause. Check with RodneyDickman.com for new parts. Grinding noises will be wear on the internal parts. Hope this helps.

Answer: Yes, there is a major difference between the two 2.8's, as well as many minor ones.

The major one is internal crankshaft balancing on the 88, which means you CANNOT use that flywheel on the 86. You MUST use an 85-87 flywheel, whether auto or manual trans. However, a clutch or torque convertor will bolt on the same to either flywheel and do not have to be year specific.

The minor ones can be changed. The 88's differences include the alt size, alt heat shield (on the exhaust manifold, not the alt), exhaust crossover pipe, EGR valve pipe, oil pressure sensor, upper plenum (engraved with "Fiero"), front engine mounting bracket, and quite likely the engine wiring harness connection at the injector harness (rectangular vrs flat). The differences between the timing chain cover and oil pan means that you can't use just one without the other (each uses a different pan gasket).

Except for the flywheel, front engine mount bracket, exhaust crossover and EGR pipes, the 86 engine w/wiring harness could be installed complete. The engraved pleneum could just be switched.

Answer: This is our opinion. That and $1 will buy a cold drink, so take it for whats it's worth to you.
1. If you have an engine that needs/uses MASSIVE amounts of filtered air, the K&N will flow more then stock paper ones.
2. The Fiero's air box and filter are NOT the most restrictive area of the air induction system (V6). The throttle valve body, upper, and middle pleneums are. Therefore, just changes to the air box or filter will be of little/no help in engine performance (flame suit on!). 4 cyl Fieros have little need for extra air due to their relatively low rpm capability.
3. Under some circumstances. However, not on most computer controlled stock engines. The optimum air/fuel ratio has been predetermined/programed, and extra "Potential" air flow is negated by the O2 sensor's imput to the computer.
4. Due to the Fiero's unusual (V6) filter air flow (from the rather small easily clogged inside area, through to the larger outside area of the filter), filters should be changed far more often then most are (probably even more often then the GM recommended 15K miles). So, a qt of lightweight oil and some soap and water will probably cost less in the long run (not the "Filtercharger kits"), then buying paper filters
5. Yes.
6. What really matters is a clean filter, washed or replaced. Understand, K&N begin their business in various racing venues (particularly dirt tracks) and their filters flowed a superior amount of filtered air and they could be cleaned between races (a very small customer target). What you see and hear today, is mostly advertising "hype" to "wannabe" racers. Makes for a much larger "mainstream" business, but most all real racers will use K&N's.

Answer: The PCV system usually clogs up in the passage cast into the bottom of the TBI on 84-86 4 cyl Fiero's.

Purchase a "spacer" gasket for the TBI (Felpro from AutoZone is inexpensive), remove the TBI unit, clean the PCV passage in the TBI and the EGR passage cast into the top of the intake manifold. Both passages "cake" solidly closed.

You may want to do a compression check. Any readings under 100 will indicate worn engine components (rings or valve seals) that create internal pressures.

However, if the passage under the TBI is closed, those pressures HAVE to come out somewhere, instead of going in to the intake manifold.

Answer: This is not normal unless you are using rebuilt parts.

Please look over our clutch bleeding procedure section. Pay particular attention to the part that advises pulling the slave cylinder pushrod back into the slave cylinder barrel. It sounds as though you are leaving air in the end of the slave that is AWAY from the bleeder.

All Fiero's have the bleeder at the wrong end of the cylinder.

Answer: The oil pan gasket can be changed by disconnecting the dogbone, Negative battery cable, and front engine mount nuts. Then placing a board under the oil pan, jacking up the engine and placing a 2X4 between the front pulley and engine cradle. That will give enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the crankshaft. Engine mount can be changed at the same time. The starter will have to be removed for access to that side pan bolts, and if auto, 1/4" swivel sockets will be needed for that side.

BTW, before doing all that, shine a flashlight at the base of the distributor. It is more likely that the distributor "O" ring is leaking. You will see a puddle of oil on the forward side if it is.

Trans mounts can also be changed by the board under the pan method, but under the bellhousing instead. It will be MUCH easier to remove the brackets w/mount attached.

Answer: It will take some time, so plan for it. Also find a piece of 2X4 about 8" long, and a flat board. You will need a floor jack and a pair of jackstands.

Disconnect the negative battery cable and dogbone (either end). Set the car on jackstands, then remove the 2 nuts from the bottom of the front motor mount cradle tray. Remove the starter. Lift the engine by the oil pan (flat board and floor jack), until the front motor mount clears and then remove it and the bracket together (85-87). Set the engine down with the 2X4 edge wise between the front pulley and engine cradle.

Some/most cars will require loosening and moving the a/c compressor, and removing the springs on the RF of the exhaust to allow the pipe under the engine to be pryed down for pan clearance. 88's require even more work as the mount bracket wraps around the engine and also bolts to the other side. Auto trans cars also have a clearance problem between the trans and pan bolts. A 1/4" socket set is needed to get between them.

The pan gasket changed between 86 and 87. 85-86 is cork and 3 piece (2 sides and a front, Black RTV for the rear). A light coating of Black RTV on both block, pan and timing cover usually assures no leaks at these places. You may want to use thread to attach the gaskets through the bolt holes on the pan to make sure the gaskets stay in place. 87-88 is a one piece "rubber" gasket. Use a light coat of Black RTV on the pan to help hold it in place. It is critical to recheck the gaskets to make sure they have not slipped out.

Answer: In lieu of a special tool, we use a deepwell socket that fits snuggly over the shaft. Then we had to grind down the outside of the socket to fit the bushing bore. That allows driving the bushing to the INSIDE of the bellhousing. There is then enough clearance to lift the fork shaft out of the bottom bushing and tilt the shaft for removal, again from inside the bellhousing. When the new shaft is installed, the bushing is driven in from the outside using the socket. There is a dust seal on the outside. It is rather useless since most of what binds the shaft is clutch dust from the inside.

Answer: Make sure the pump has a cast iron impeller that the vanes can only be seen from the sides.

It is the only one that creates the force to move coolant the entire length of a Fiero and back.

Removing the battery will help with the exchange. You don't need a bracket or "thingy" to keep the timing chain cover in place, but you do need to document where the bolts came from. There are different lengths and sizes that need to go back where they came from.

After cleaning the bolt threads (wire wheel is best), LIGHTLY coat all threads with RTV, as a couple go into the blocks water jacket.

Answer: 1. Exhaust valves line up with the ports to the exhaust manifold. Intake is the other valve that lines up with port coming in from the intake.

2. Workers are correct. 3/4 to 1 turn or a "rule of thumb" is 4 threads showing above each adjusting nut.

3. Sounds like neither!

4. That cyl is on the exhaust stroke. Compression stoke occurs just after the intake valve closes and timing mark comes up. That will be Top Dead Center if you are looking at #1 cylinder. Drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire.

Answer: Could be a bit of a pain if the car still has the original catalytic convertor. Starter is easy to unbolt, but will not come out until the right front exhaust springs are detached (thats the pain!!) to allow pulling the convertor down so the starter can come out on that side.

Answer: A 2000 rpm idle is almost always a cracked EGR pipe. Which can somewhat close up when hot. The code is set because the ECM cannot control the idle with the IAC, though it is trying.

The IAC is out of the "loop" when rpm reaches 1500. That will NOT be the problem. Don't waste any $$ on a new one.

The EGR valve tube runs between the EGR valve (on the exhaust crossover pipe) and the underside of the upper pleneum neck (red top of engine). Sorta goes around the distributor.

You want to loosen the 2 bolts that hold the flange to the pleneum just enough to slide a small piece of soda/beer can between the flange and pleneum to block any air from getting in behind the throttle plate (which causes the high "idle").

The distributor cap will need to be out of the way for access. Easiest way is to remove the 3 trunk side wires from the cap and "lay" the cap on top of the pleneum. It's simpler to reattach the 3 that are easily seen then to remove them all.

CAUTION: those 2 bolts are VERY short and if backed out too quickly/far, will fall and disappear forever!!!!

The block off plate can be left in place until another EGR pipe can be found. It normally takes several years before any engine damage may occur.

Answer: 1st suspect would be a bad throttle cable. 84-86 L4's had a problem with it wearing through by rubbing against the decklid after it's factory valve cover clamp broke.

Next would be sticking linkage bellcranks (that the cable attaches to).

3rd would be a loose accelerator pedal. Neither of these would set a code, since the ECM would just think thats where the engine was throttled to. Don't think you need to "throw" parts at the car.

Disconnect the throttle cable in the engine compartment (a bear to do and you'll probably have a few "bruises") and feel for absolute smoothness of movement. Then check for unimpeded bellcrank movement. Make sure the pedal is firmly attached to the firewall. Let me know if none of the above cures your problem as there are a few other remote things that can cause this, but these are the most prevalent.

Answer: It takes a very complete 1/4" drive socket set to remove the valve covers without having to first remove the upper and middle pleneums. The Fiero 2.8 (due to using alloy valve covers) utilizes a "rubber" gasket. These are normally reuseable, and may reseal with just "snugging" them down (overtightening will distort them). They were installed "dry" at the factory, but a VERY light coating of Permatex Ultra Black sealant will help with sealing if the valve covers are removed/gasket replaced. Make sure that any gasket has the suffix "R" behind the part #.

Answer: Here is a "trick" we use at the shop. It accomplishes 2 things.
1. Allows cleaning the gear debris out of the oil pan (very important)
2. Leaves the engine and cradle in the car without removing wiring or coolant.

1st, disconnect the battery and dogbone. Loosen the alt and remove belt. Next, remove the starter, a/c compressor, and 2 nuts holding the front engine mount. Then remove the crank hub/pulley and timing gear cover, but loosely reinstall the hub/pulley. Lift the engine with a floor jack (piece of wood under the pan) until a 2X4 on it's edge will go between the pulley and cradle.

This gives enough clearance to remove the pan. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove the pan. Have a helper hold one of the cam lobes (can be seen with the pan off) steady with a crowbar and chisel off the fiber gear by spliting the alloy hub. If the cam moves forward, it will break the retainer or possibly let the lifters come of the cam lobes. If it moves into the engine, it can possibly knock the freeze plug into the bellhousing. Heat the new gear and tap it (gently) on while the helper is again holding the cam in place. Clean out the oil pan and reinstall everything that was removed.

Don't get in a rush. It takes LOTS longer to do (8-9 hrs) then it took to type this.

Answer: A freeze "plug" actually fills a hole in the block/heads water jacket that was designed to hold the block/head during the casting process.

But, by having a softer plug fill the hole after casting is completed, the theory is that it (the plug) will push out before the block/head cracks if coolant/water freezes within the castings. Over time, the plug can erode, pinholes develop, and coolant will escape, especially under pressure.

There are 3 freeze plugs on the starter side of a 4 cyl block (if I remember correctly). One is just above/behind the starter. Usually fairly simple to pry out after the area is cleared, but a bit difficult to drive another in. There are rubber "expansion type" plugs, but they need to be checked carefully to make sure they do not try to slide out of the hole and cause a massive leak. Engine will not have to be removed.

Answer: Here is how we do it.

Remove radiator cap, thermostat housing cap, and thermostat with the car on level surface.

Add coolant into the thermostat housing until it runs out of radiator cap opening.

Replace radiator cap.

Slowly add more coolant until thermostat housing is full. Replace thermostat cap - leave thermostat out.

Run engine for 15-20 seconds.

Remove thermostat cap and slowly add more coolant until thermostat housing is full again.

Replace thermostat cap and repeat previous 2 steps until no more coolant can be added. (Might be 4-5 times.)

Install thermostat and cap.

Run engine until warm and add coolant to "Full When Hot" mark on over flow jug.

Check jug next day. Should be at "Full When Cold" mark.

Takes quite awhile, but gets system completely full, and usually only has to be done every couple of years.

Answer: If the car is in a good state of tune, chances are you have a broken engine/trans mount or a worn torque strut (commonly called a "dogbone").

If the car is an auto, that is the speed area where the torque convertor lockup occurs and the slight engine speed change, in conjunction with the above, can make it seem as though something is wrong with the engine performance.

Of course, something could be wrong with one of the engine sensors. A scan of the engine would reveal if that is the problem.

Answer: Different tires and wheel should not cause overheating.

In your case, since temps are normal at lower speeds, it sounds as though the waterpump impeller is so worn as to not be able to circulate enough coolant at higher rpm.

Hoses almost always collapse (not much of problem on Fiero's) on the "suction" (return) side. That is the passenger side of a Fiero. For added peace of mind, the short hose from the radiator could be replaced, but doubt it is a problem.

Answer: Several thoughts about your problem.

Idle is above what IAC is capable of, so disregard that code. Running engine for long enough to reset the computer probably won't lower idle. It takes a lot of air for the idle to be that high....fuel alone will not do it. Computer will adjust fuel to match air intake.

So, would first check to make sure throttle plate is closed. Either plate shaft or throttle cable could cause it to allow air past the plate.

If plate is fully closed when engine is off or running, then there is air entering the engine beneath the plate.

Possible sources:
1. PCV valve/hose
2. Spacer/gasket between TBI and intake.
3. Intake gasket between manifold and head.

There are 3 temp sensors on the engine. If the one in the thermostat housing is bad, it could cause the ECM to think the engine is cold at all times. That could cause a high idle and "sooted" plugs, but doubt it WOULD?? cause that high an idle (beyond the ECM's control of the IAC). Same would be appropriate for a faulty TPS.

Therefore, it seems as though the engine is drawing in air from somewhere.

Answer: The correct '88 parts may cost more then the engine!! There are quite a few differences. Front V6 engine mounting bracket is scarce.....$70. Front mount expensive new....used is $25. Lower a/c compressor bracket is $15. Then to be correct, different exhaust crossover pipe....$90, and EGR pipe...$90, different oil pressure sensor which requires different engine wiring harness ...$275. Timing cover and oil pan are also different. $140. Engraved pleneum is $75. However, the crossover/w tin heat shields, EGR pipe, oil sensor/wiring harness, timing cover and pan, and pleneum can be used from the '86 engine.

Don't forget you also need the V6 air cleaner assembly and "S" intake tube, molded heat hose to thermostat housing, and forward and rear vacuum lines in addition to the throttle cable. Then you will have to really squeeze the brake booster rubber line to the smaller size of the '86 vacuum tube (unless you find the engraved pleneum with that tube). You will have to cut off about the last 3-4" of drs side coolant tube to use a stock V6 hose, and remove and plug the waterpump nipple for the heater hose that is not on the '88's.. '86 ECM/chip is actually better by 5 hp then '88. Complete Formula instrument and aux gauge pack is $150, but you really only need an '85 V6 tach. We don't have or know where pictures may be. Sorry. May have forgotten something, but this is most of what needs to be changed/added/removed.

Actually '85-86 timing covers and oil pans are the same and '87-88's are the same. Cannot be mismatched, but will interchange as a set.

We don't know about online, but expect that must folks would not know this stuff, or care, unless in a similar situation as you. Another difference that we forgot. 1988's used a smaller size alternator (fits same bracket as '85-87) without a heat shield on the back. The '88 used a heat shield attached to the exhaust manifold.

BTW, the '87-88 oil pan is several gauges of metal thinner then '85-86 (consequently rust through from the outside in salty environments), and their 1 piece rubber gasket is about 5 times more expensive (but seals better then the cork of the '85-86). Sorta "damned if you do, damned if you don't".

Only '87-88 engines came with engraved plenums, but they have been added to many '85-86 decaled engines. You may have an '87-88 engine, but most folks won't go to the trouble of changing timing covers and oil pans. '87-88 had the bottom of the timing cover on a flat plane even with the bottom of the block. Oil pan was also completely flat. That combo uses a 1 piece rubber gasket. '85-86 timing cover slanted approx 45 degrees down and away from the edge of the block and so does the pan. This combo uses 2 side and 1 front cork gaskets and RTV at the rear. 1988's used a foil wrapped crossover that was shorter toward the convertor down pipe by 3-4" as the '85-87. Requires a matching (also scarce) down pipe to keep exhaust even under the car. It also mounts the EGR valve at a different angle so that a longer EGR valve pipe is necessary.

You can use the '88 4 cyl auto, but performance will be a bit sluggish (2.84 final drive ratio). You will have to change the kickdown cable to that of a V6. Only change necessary, but it would be wise to use '85-86 trans mounts/brackets (1 front, 1 rear) instead of the single one in the center. Holes are already in the engine cradle.

Updated/Additional info:
V6 fuel pump, a complete ready to start/running V6 engine w/correct (to your car, auto or manual trans) wiring harness, V6 alternator, V6 a/c compressor, V6 dogbone, V6 flywheel/flexplate, water crossover pipe, V6 ECM + it's plastic holding tray (holder does not apply to 85-86 4 cyl), complete V6 air filter assembly, V6 throttle cable, and V6 engine compartment hoses/lines. V6 trunk bulkhead vacuum lines and front bulkhead EGR solenoid metal line are needed and should be added when engine is out. VERY few parts interchange between the 4 cyl and V6 engines, so make sure the engine is complete and ready to start/run. We would be happy to purchase the 87-88 4 cyl throttle cables and ECM holding trays, or to swap those for V6 parts.

Changing spark plugs and water pump at this time would also be a good idea. Water pump MUST have a cast iron impeller (vanes seen only from the side).

Concerning installation:

You will have a problem with the exhaust and front engine mounting. Both systems are made differently on 88's and 87 parts will NOT fit the 88 engine cradle nor vice/versa. Inspect/replace, if cracked, the V6 forward manifold.....NOW.

The cross car (pass side to drs side) brake line across the trunk bulkhead is different between 4 cy and V6 cars, but will not interfere with the V6 installation and should not have a heat problem due to close proximity to the V6 exhaust manifold. However, if "spongyness" in brakes is observed after long periods of driving, replace this line with a V6 one.

Would suggest having a 2" extension welded to the "foot" (going toward front of car) of the 87 mounting bracket.Then, redrilling the holes in the modified bracket AND the engine cradle mount tray to accept a solid 87 engine mount instead of trying to use the viscous filled 88 mount. This will save finding an 88 V6 mounting bracket/mount and a/c compressor adjusting bracket. There will NOT be a V6 engine shock mount bracket (or a place to put it) on the 88 cradle.....don't worry about that....it is not really needed. Discard the shock but leave the engine side shock bracket in place. None of this is appropriate to 85-87 cars. 88 V6 engines going into earlier cars must use the earlier mount bracket and will not have the engine side shock mount bracket (again, don't worry about having a shock), just remove the 88 engine mount bracket and use one from an 85-87 V6.

Drs side 4 cyl coolant tube will need to be shortened 3-4" in the engine compartment and hose double clamped. Attaching the heater outlet hose will require adding a nipple to the V6 water pump (87-88 V6's have a pipe plug) and you will have to cut off the "quick disconnect" of the 87-88 4 cyl heater outlet hose to extend the hose to the nipple.

A competent muffler shop should be able to make a down pipe between the V6 exhaust crossover pipe and your catalytic converter. You will need to cut the 4 cyl head pipe just above the drs side springs to make room for the engine. If dual outlet exhaust is wanted, remember that only an 88 exhaust system (including muffler) will fit under the 88 engine cradle. The V6 should not be too loud to drive there. 85-87 cars can use a complete V6 exhaust system from one of those years. If it is an 88 engine, an 85-87 exhaust crossover pipe is necessary to avoid cutting/welding.

If your car is a manual trans, there will be interference between the shifting cables and the V6 air inlet ("S") tube. Simply twisting the "S" tube should allow clearance. If running a shifting cable across the V6 throttle valve body, make sure the cable does not interfere with the throttle action. The 4 cyl clutch assembly can be used, but a 6 cyl clutch (with 4 cyl release bearing) would be better. Water crossover pipes' lower bracket will not work, but hose (remember to double clamp) will hold it in place as long as upper bracket is attached.

Radiator should be OK in your locale, but may need changing to V6 if car is moved to warmer climates.

Answer: Unless you know where they are by feel, they are just difficult to see. For easy access, remove both heat grilles, unplug the trunk release wire, and take the 4 bolts out that hold the trunk to the hinge. Lift the trunk off and you can see and reach the plugs easily. To put the trunk back on, put the 4 bolts back in loosely, close the decklid and "thunk" it back in alignment (this is quicker then trying to mark where the bolts were). Then tighten the bolts through the area of the heat grilles. Open the decklid and reinstall the heat grilles. Doesn't take very much extra time and gives LOTS of extra room to the forward side of the engine.

Answer: An IAC code will be set when the computer cannot control it for correct idle.

A TPS code will be set when the computer cannot recognize the voltage it sends in relation to other sensor inputs.

In your case, would expect the TPS is at fault since the IAC has no bearing on throttle hesitation. Regardless of when it was replaced.

Answer: Rustie, the injector either has no power or is not being grounded (pulsed) by the ECM.

A 12v test light will do to find out if you have power. Red wire is power input from the fuse with key on. Blue is grounded by the ECM. If you probe the blue wire, the test light will also light up, since it is providing a constant ground. Disregard that as a symptom - it only shows that the injector has continuity. A noid light attached to the injector will actually show if it is being pulsed (yours obviously isn't). BTW, a constantly spraying injector is caused by the blue wire being grounded somewhere, or a bad ECM.

99% of the time an injector does not "fire" on the 4 cyl cars, the problem is a bad fusible link that powers that aspect of the ECM. The other 1% is a bad ECM. Check fusible links with a 12v test light to both sides and/or GENTLY pull the wire on either side of the link. Sometimes there are just enough strands left of the fusible link that the test light might light on both sides, but if that is the case the wire will usually come out of one end, when pulled on.

A fusible link looks like something a wire is going through. It is inline, round, about 1" long, and maybe 3/8" in diameter. They are found near the starter and the 12v distribution center near the battery (and elsewhere in the car for other circuits). We don't have an 87 Helms manual at home, so can't tell you which/where that fusible link is (Pontiac changed locations between 86 and 87 models). So, check them all, unless someone tells you exactly which one is the ECM feed.

Answer: There are 3 temp sensors on the head of your 85 L4 (as well as 84's & 86's). All are on the drivers side and form a sorta "halo" along the same line. The one that is hard to see is on the front of the head, points toward the rear window, and turns on the radiator fan when engine temps reach 223-224 degrees.

The one that points straight up is for the temp gauge. Turn the ignition switch to on, jump the sender connection (by a "U" shaped piece of wire or a paperclip, and watch the gauge. If it swings to extreme Hot, then the gauge is usually OK, and the sender is bad.

The sensor mounted in the themostat housing is for the ECM.

Think of it this way, front sender (called fan switch) is for the front fan, middle sender is for the gauge in the middle of the car, and rear sensor is for the ECM which is the furtherest toward the rear of the car.

87-88 L4's have only two senders/sensors - gauge and ECM (in the same locations). On these, the ECM turns on the fan.

Many autoparts catalogs/computers have the wrong sensors/senders/switches listed for our cars, so always compare what you are given with what is in the car. Do not use any kind of "plumbers tape" to seal these parts. New ones come with a non-insulating coating, or a sensor proof RTV can be used on one that has been removed and is being reinstalled..

Using the a/c controller to turn on the fan, with no compressor or compressor belt, will not harm anything. But, it should not be used if you have a siezed compressor with the belt still on.

Answer: There are 4 temp related sensors/senders on a V6 Fiero engine. The one changed in this email (in the head, sorta under the coil) is for the gauge/temp light and will NOT set a code 15.

2 others stick straight up from the intake manifold between the thermostat housing and the forward valve cover. The single wire sensor closest to the valve cover (squeeze connector to remove) is the radiator fan switch. The other is a 2 wire connection held by a spring wire clip. It is the cold start injector switch. Neither of these will set a code 15.

The last sensor is for the ECM. If faulty, it WILL set a code 15. It is also the hardest to find/see. It is located on the front of the intake manifold just above the timing cover and points straight out toward the pass rear wheel. It is covered by the wiring bundle that comes across the front of the engine under the EGR solenoid.

Answer: Reinstall the fuse, then pull the connection off the oil pressure sender. That should stop the pump from running. If it does, replace the oil pressure sender. The sender is a back up switch in case the ECM or relay fails (to get you home). It will turn on the fuel pump as soon as the engine reaches 4 PSI, and then keep it on while the engine is running. They can fail and keep the pump running at all times.

The fuel pump is in the tank. Don't know who told you about a "bad" ground. They need to understand that electrical parts do not operate without a ground.

Answer: It sounds like you have a malfunctioning coolant sensor, or if an auto no signal to the ECM from the neutral safety switch that the car is in gear. A scan of the ECM should tell what is wrong.

Answer: Does the car have a 2 second run of the fuel pump when key is turned on. If not, fuel pump relay is probably not working, and fuel pump is not turned on until after the engine is cranked over, at which time the oil pressure sender will activate it.

If you have the 2 second run, then it sounds as though the fuel system has lost pressure. This is usually due to a "leaky" injector.

Answer: This would be typical of an ignition part failing due to heat.

Ignition coil, ignition module, or pickup coil.

If you try to restart the car too quickly, the fuel pump will not turn on.

Answer: Use only AC Delco fuel pumps, and try to keep at least 1/4 tank of fuel onboard. The pump is designed to be submerged for cooling purposes. Constantly running low on fuel can cause pump failure.

Sounds like poor quality aftermarket pumps have been installed.

Answer: It sounds like a large air leak is causing both problems. Probably too much to be a small vacuum line.

First check the PCV valve. It is at the base of the Throtle Body Injection (TBI) in the large hose that runs from the valve cover. If stuck open, it will allow massive amounts of air in. You can plug it from the valve cover side.

If OK, then carefully (it's flammable) spray WD40 around the base gasket of the TBI, EGR valve, and along the intake manifold gasket. A slight rpm increase will occur when the deteriorated gasket is found.

Answer: You are probably correct. Try the module next as you don't have to pull the distributor.

These ignition parts, in particular, should be replaced with AC Delco parts. Aftermarket parts have proven not to last very long.

Answer: There is no timing adjustments with the Direct Ignition System (DIS) that the 87-88 4 cyls use. Everything is done electronically by the computer.

Your problem will be the crankshaft sensor, the ignition module, one of the coils, or the ECM. It would be costly to just replace parts. In this case, paying a qualified technician to diagnois which is faulty will likely be less expensive.

Answer: You are sort of correct. The small gauge wire connects just after the fusible link of the heavy gauge one, but goes to the other alt connector. No reason you couldn't go directly from the back terminal to the other.

Answer: This sounds like a dirty air intake system, particuarly the idle air passage.

It could also be the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) or the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor. A scan of the engine would determine if a sensor is faulty.

Answer: We doubt problem is module (it should have failed completely by now).

First, check all connections in the engine compartment. Then remove one plug wire at a time to isolate the non-firing cyl. When found, do a wire and plug switch from a different cyl. Recheck by removing one wire at a time again to see if miss stays in the same cyl. If so, injector is probably gummed up. If the miss moves, either plug or wire is faulty.

Answer: This is both simple and complex.

1st, what is fuel mileage? If 10 gal's yield 200 miles, 5 gals yield 100 miles (with tripmeter divided by gals used....not by tank indication), then mileage is 20 mpg. Could be good for certain engine/trans/car use combos but may be rich for others.

However, if pulling the plugs shows a light tan color on the porcelain, then it would be driving habits, not fuel mixture, that would make someone suspect a rich condition. Only sooty black porcelain truly indicates a rich mixture.

2nd, with unleaded fuels, all exhaust tips look "sooty", regardless of a rich condition or not. "Cakey" soot in the tips is usually caused by excessive oil burning (which normally reduces mpg).

Above is the simple part!

Below is the complex part:

The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor measures the rise and fall of the pressure (lets call it vacuum...for a later reason) in the intake manifold as the throttle valve is opened and closed. As the valve is opened, pressure (vacuum) falls. The MAP converts this to an electrical reading for the ECM. Along with the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor), the ECM then knows how much MORE fuel to meter.

There are 2 other important sensors concerning fuel metering. The Coolant Temp Sensor lets the ECM know if the engine is cold (requiring more fuel...or if faulty, may demand more fuel even if warm), and the Oxygen Sensor which lets the ECM know the final oxygen content in the exhaust gases (in other words, how efficient the combustion mixture...rich/lean...is).

All these are analyzed by the ECM to determine how much fuel to deliver.

Now, back to the MAP. If there is a pressure (vacuum) drop caused by a vacuum/air leak, gasket/lines (not related to the accelerator position), then the ECM will increase the fuel mixture resulting in a rich condition.

Actually, a "bucking" is usually caused by a lean condition or accelerating from too low a speed for the gear selected (manual trans).

Sorry this cannot pinpoint a definite source for your problem, but hope it gives you some insight as to what to look for.

Answer: You didn't say if car is auto trans or manual.

Manual can come out of the pass side wheel well after removing the wheel, liner, and toe adjusting rod from the spindle.

Auto cannot be removed that way.

Either can be removed from the top if exhaust manifold and air tube are first removed, but there is the danger of snapping an exhaust manifold bolt.

Perhaps the best way for either is to sit the car on jackstands, take one end of the dogbone loose, and with a floor jack under the rear of the engine cradle, lower the back of the cradle by removing the 2 straight up engine cradle bolts. That will give enough clearance to take the alt out from the bottom.

Take negative battery cable off before starting alt removal.

Answer: The phantom wipe is usually always the multi-switch in the steering column. It is what the stalk plugs into, and also controls high/low beams and windshield washer motor. It is possible there is a bad control board in the wiper motor, but that is remote.

Answer: Trunk release relay socket is just to the right of the steering column. Never tried a horn relay so don't know if one would work. However, a 12 gauge wire straight from the switch to the solenoid will work fine.

Answer: For a change, a mechanic is correct about a Fiero.

The ajar switch is located on the door latch of all 86-88 Fieros. It is black plastic (looks like the one on the trunk latch). The pin switch you see is for the dome lights (that is why they are working).

If your car does not have one, the door has been changed to 84-85, which did NOT have the switch on the latch.

Throw away the manual you have!!

Pin switches are used on all year Fiero hoods, in the door jambs, and for the trunk on 84-85's ajar lights.

Answer: Both gauges will not operate at the same time.

Answer: There is a tach buffer wrapped up in the large wiring harness bundle that goes across the trans bellhousing.

Either it has failed or the ignition module has.

Answer: The fan relay is directly in front of the drivers side head lamp. '84 and '88 are different shapes and connections. Seldom does the relay go bad. It is usually the fan switch on the engine, except '87-88 4 cyl. These are turned on by the ECM. You can check by pushing either AC button on the dash (if you have AC). Even if your AC doesn't work, that should turn on the fan.

Answer: Not at all sure what you are asking, but below are a few thoughts.

1st, hope you are not pressure washing under the hood. There are far too many electrical relays, motors and switches that though waterproofed, are not designed to take on direct water pressure.

2nd, you didn't say how you knew that power was sometimes at the plug (assume you mean fan motor connection). If by a voltmeter or 12v test lamp showing interruptions, not by the fan sometimes working, then the power interruption would be before the fan connection. Relay, wiring/connections, a/c controller or if engine is hot, the engine fan switch.

3rd, a quick "field test" of the fan motor is to spin the fan blades. They should spin easily (without any scrapping sound against the shroud) and for a fairly long time, without "shuddering" to a stop. Shuddering would indicate very worn brushes and/or armature in the fan motor.

You could also power the motor directly from the battery or other 12v source, letting it come to a stop at least once to check for the shudder, intermittently applying power to make sure it always speeds up.

The engine fan switch is the single wire sensor between the t-stat housing and the forward (seat side) valve cover pointing straight up out of the intake manifold. It is known for failure. It is a ground for the circuit and can be checked (when engine is hot) and with ignition on, by just grounding the wire. If the fan motor was not running, and then begins to, the switch is bad. This method can also be used to check the a/c controller. Engine cold, ignition on, controller a/c button(s) pushed on, ground the wire and the fan should run.

Answer: Although the power to the washer motor comes from the wiper, it is usually a bad motor. You can run it directly with battery power to check. There are inexpensive replacement motors available at most discount parts stores (this is almost a "universal" GM washer motor). When you locate the fuse box (left of left knee), you will feel two plastic tabs on each side. Squeeze them TOGETHER and pull the box down. You can then look at the fuses without laying upside down. The box sometimes gets caught on the hood release cable, and that would have to be moved toward the driver side of the car.

Answer: Apparently the needle has slipped. This happens frequently since ALL Fieros are somewhat miswired. 12v is applied the instant the key is turned to start. This "buries" the needle and upon time rotates it on the stem.

Often, the needle can be removed and relocated on the stem for correct calibration. After that is done (super glue works), the miswiring can be corrected.

Answer: You have a "Scan" and "Seek" button on the radio. On the far right side is a tiny button marked "Set". Press the "Set" button and immediately push the "Scan" button. That will run the hrs on the radio face. After correct hr is found, you can push "Set" button again and then "Seek". That will run the minutes.

To set radio stations, manually tune or scan for a program you like. Then push "Set" and the radio button you want it to be on. After the 4 buttons are filled, you can push "Set" and 2 side by side buttons to have another preset station. You can actually have 7 stations preset by doing that, although it is a bit bothersome to have to push 2 buttons at a time for the last 3 presets.

Answer: All Fiero's came with a door chime. There is no relay, but there are circumstances necessary before they "sound off". Perhaps you haven't met the circumstance.

Such as...

Headlights left on when the ignition switch is shut off.

Key left in the ignition switch when a door is opened.

Handbrake is applied when the ignition switch is turned on.

Although expensive new, they are a "dime a dozen" used, since every Fiero had one (they are all the same) and lots of owners remove them. They would be far below our $20 minimum order though.

Answer: There are 2 pages of diagnostics in the Helms manual.

However, before you buy one, check/replace the PWR ACC circuit breaker located on the fuse box. The courtesy/lid fuse supplies power to trip the relay you hear, but there may not be power supplied by the circuit breaker for it to pass through to the door lock 12v motors.

Having a Helm's manual is a good idea anyway.

Answer: The headlight motors are controlled by an electronic relay under the LF fender, sorta behind the side marker light. Accessed by removing (or at least pulling back) the LF wheel well liner.

There are 3 plastic drive pins in each motor that crumble over time. If those are bad, the motor will spin, but not raise or lower the lights, nor shut off. If the motor is not spinning, then either the relay is bad, the motor drive levers have "hung up/jammed", or the motor is fried. Because the electronic relay works on a current surge, any surge in current (when headlight hits up or down) will cause the relay to shut off current.

You can get an idea of what is happening by using 2 jumper wires from the operating headlight connection. If the motor starts spinning, then the relay is likely bad. Further testing by a 12v source directly to the motor (from a battery) will tell if the motor is good.

The drive pins are very inexpensive and available from www.rodneydickman.com.

Answer: The brushes and armature are probably wearing. The motors have a natural "phase" where they normally stop. Turning the knob puts them "out of phase" and on a new contact patch. They will usually work for a short period of time until returning to their natural "phase".

Sometimes cleaning the brushes and armature is all that is necessary. Sometimes wear is too much and replacement is called for. There are no known replacement brushes at this time.

The electronic control module is in the cavity between the fender and the outside of the "headlight box" metal and attaches with 2 screws on the dr's side. Sorta behind the side marker light. Access is by pulling back or removing the inner fender well.

Although called "electronic", the module is NOT solid state. It contains 3 relay switches with points that can be filed/cleaned. That will sometimes/sometimes not bring them back to life.

Answer: Check your BAT fuse. It is probably blown, and if so, your cigarette lighter and radio memory will also be non-functioning.

BTW, the fuse box will pull down if you squeeze the prongs on each side. Makes it easier to see.

Most likely cause of a blown BAT fuse is the lighter recepticle or the wires connecting it making a short to ground, or a shorted horn.

Answer: Yes, both will. Back cushion cover must be removed to be used on the drivers side, but the bottom cushion can have just the recliner and slide tracks swapped. You would end up with the 2 holes from where the pass recliner was, but they will now be next to the tunnel and not be seen.

Answer: The back upholstery - upright seat skin covers - are the same, side to side. However, the upholstery must be removed and reinstalled on the other back. The back frames themselves are not interchangeable.

The bottom cushions can be interchanged (switch the tracks). There are provisions for attaching the recliner mechanisms on both sides. That will leave holes in the upholstery, but those would be next to the tunnel and cannot be seen. '86-87 GT, and '86-87 SE seats are all the same.

Answer: We don't have a good seat belt guide, but they may still be available from Pontiac. However, yours sounds repairable. We used to go get a metal fan blade (spring steel) from a junkyard and cut a piece about 2" long that lays along the ledge the tab was molded to. We cut it as a thin rectangle but with a tab that could be bent up and then used 2 rivets to attach it to the ledge. The spring steel tabs never broke or bent again.

Answer: Do NOT pick the car up by the rocker panels or pinch welds. Damage occurs, but guess you know this by now!! Pinch weld is used only by the factory jack at the correct location to change a wheel.

Under the car are 2 spots in the front where the lower frame rails attach to the floorboard. Use them.

In the rear there are 2 spots just in front of the engine cradle. It is where the cradle mounting brackets attach to the floorboard. Use those. This gives good balance with the engine in and with it out. It is what the Helm service manual shows.

If the car is lowered or lift legs are too high, drive the front wheels up on 1 or 2 pieces of 2X6's laid flat on the floor. We use 2 pieces, staggered, ends slanted and nailed together, approx 2 feet long on the bottom piece. That should give enough clearance for front and rear lift legs to go under.

Cracked rocker panels can sometimes be repaired with plastic cement and then fiberglass mat added inside for strength.

Answer: This is common when a car has been "tapped" in the rear. Sounds like this has at one time. Pull the facia off. The side to side mounting bar can then be bent back up.

Answer: The 84 trunk with center heat grille was not even real good for the 4 cyl (only engine in 84), as it allowed rain to fall onto the exhaust manifold and main wiring (C-500) connection. It also proved too weak to use with the stronger decklid springs necessary to hold up the Indy decklid which was standard with a wing.

When the V6 was introduced in 85, that grille had minor clearance problems with the V6 intake. It would also have allowed water to drain directly onto the plugs and forward exhaust manifold at all times. And, many 85 GTs were ordered with a wing that required the stronger springs. Therefore, the decklid was redesigned.

Later decklids are a direct bolt on but also need the matching side heat grilles installed at the same time. Replacement of the 84 decklid is a matter of personal choice (looks), or if you want to add a wing. Hope this helps.

Answer: Only 84's had glass inserts. They also had metal prongs that pushed through 2 metal grips along the back edge. '85-88 sail panels all had plastic push pins that went through holes in the upper qtr section.

84's can be used on '85-88's as long as the 2 metal grips are added to the upper qtr. '85-88's can be use on 84's by removing the 2 metal grips.

Answer: Fiberglass on the INSIDE may help with support, but there is plastic welding, and special epoxies (from body shop suppliers) that do a better job with a crack/rip. They will not help with a hole.

Plastic welding and epoxies are also done from the inside, so you will have to remove the facia. Epoxies do a better job and are usually easier for a DIY'er.

You could also call a major body shop (not a dealer), to find out if there is a "bumper repair shop" in your area (that's how they are listed in most phone books) that they use. That is all they do - repair urethane facias - and will do a better job then you or a body shop.

Answer: It will be long to type. Please read it all before starting.

Lock cyls are attached to a bracket that is attached to the outer door panel. A "C" clip on the lock cyl is between bracket and outer panel. Nearly impossible to remove/reinstall from inside the door, but you might try that first.

Outer panel can be "opened" enough from the rear door edge to reach "C" clip without total removal, but varies between '84 (has "feather" fastners along top of outer panel and pulls straight out....gently) and '85-88 models (top of outer panel sits in a groove and is lifted straight up) . Basically, body side molding must be removed (will require 4 new clips to reinstall....trust me, have them ready, they are still available) to reach a screw just in front of the door handle that holds the outer panel to the door crash beam. Body side molding has a "feather" fastner under door handle that is pried out, molding is pulled outward, and is then slid forward to come off the front clip. Then remove covered 4 screws (most are torx, some are allen head) on inside rear edge of door. Then all plastic rivets under door edge (if car has ground effects, they can stay on the door panel or be lifted off their bracket). Door panel should then pull up/out enough for access to the "C" clip and lock rod will lift out of lock lever but has a clip that holds it to the lock cyl (don't drop it).

If that does not give enough access, then mirror is removed (another story) and 3 covered screws inside the front door edge removed to allow the outer panel be taken entirely off. If you decide to or have to take the outer panel off, start with the front 3 inside door edge screws FIRST. They have a tendency to strip. If one does, then door must be removed at the hinges to have access to them. If any of the 4 on the rear strip, break off the plastic cover and use vise grips. There is no room to use vise grips or anything else on the front 3. The front body molding clip/screw is then removed and outer panel will come off.

As the manuals say....installation is the reverse!! Just DON'T forget to get the lock rod back in it's hole in the lock lever as the outer panel is reattached, or all this has just been practice!!!

Nasty job that would have been so much easier if Pontiac had just put the lock cyl "C" clip toward the inside of the bracket for access through the interior panel.

If this doesn't help enough, would you mind giving us a call?

Answer: Strange....those bolts don't come loose by themselves. Sound like she had some work done by an incompetant "mechanic".

There are 2 bolts that go straight up and screw into nuts that are tack welded to a washer, which is in turn tack welded to the inside of the frame rail. When the bolt is being removed, the washer often breaks loose from the frame rail.

The (now spinning) nut can be accessed with a long wrench through the rear of the hollow frame rails after the taillights, side marker lights, rear facia, and rear reinforcement/honey comb is removed. But, simpler is to chisel a 3 sided square in the frame rail next to the nut and bend the flap out of the way of reaching the nut.. That involves removing the inner wheel well only.

Your 88 cradle uses much shorter bolts for the rear of the cradle then 84-87 Fiero's that have thick mount bushings (front bolts are the same but there are no bushings). 88's are direct bolt, cradle to frame, front and rear.

We are not certain just what you need, but you can use non-Fiero bolts and nuts if you remove what's there.

Answer: The bolts on the upper control arm of an '88 are torqued to 52 ft lbs PLUS 1/4 turn. Otherwise, they will be too loose and allow the "teeth" on the crossbolt to chew out the top of the crossmember. After that happens, nothing will help (no amount of torque) except a good crossmember.

Suspect that has already happened.

Answer: "Bumpsteer" is created by a wheel changing toe-in or toe-out as it moves up and down. In effect, causing that wheel to have a steering effect. '84-87 Fiero's have this aggrevated on the rear by the toe adjusting rod being mounted much higher then the spindles pivot point at the lower ball joint. A matter of geometry.

Various fixes attempt to move the adjusting rod more closely in line (or shorten it's travel) to the spindles pivot point. We have not used any of the kits, but the stock geometry is adequate for ordinary driving. Spirited, and especially competition driving, is a different story. You don't need a single wheel to (bump) steer in or out just because the suspension hits a "bump" or has the cars weight "loaded" toward one side. The '88 suspension uses links to locate the spindles pivot point and adjust the toe that are virtually in a straight line. That allows the suspension to go up and down without "turning" the wheel.

This is the short course. The long course takes several years of geometry, and we didn't take geometry!!!

Answer: There are 2 different ratio rack and pinions for 84-87 Fiero's, one that is "lighter" (actually slower) to turn (non WS6) but takes more turns lock to lock. One ratio for all 88's. You can also get a "lighter" feel by having the car aligned with the castor set close to the minimum spec.

Answer: It sounds as though you have the tensioning spring (rests against the bearing) in upside down, or not at all. We expect that when you say "rack just kind wobbles around" you really mean the steering shaft. It is much simpler to replace the column then rebuild it.

Answer: Acceleration/deacceleration "twist" almost always come from the rear. On '84-87 Fiero's, it's usually caused by (or a combination of) bad rear control arm bushings, bad rear ball joint/wallowed out knuckle hole, bad outer or frozen inner toe adjustment link (tie rod), or worse - the bracket the toe adjustment link attaches to on the engine cradle may have broken at it's weld. That is difficult to see due to the muffler and a heat shield. Usually on the pass (torque) side.

Answer: We'll try to help with an answer.

1. Low pressure side is on the accumulator (3" dia can thing)

2. No sight glass.

3. Fiero a/c systems take approx 44 oz of oil and Freon by weight. 1 or 2 cans may not be enough to turn on the compressor for circulation.

You should purchase a Helms manual if you wish to service the car yourself.

Answer: Check to see if the cable attached to the "hot..cold" slider has come loose from the a/c-heater box or the controller. It opens and closes a "door" that allows heated air to enter the car.

Then look under the hood to see if someone bypassed the heater core (often done when it starts leaking).

Then look under the car to see if either heater line has been crushed closed by high centering the car.

If all the above are OK, and one of the hoses under the hood are warm, suspect a clogged core.

Since the car would overheat within minutes if there was no coolant circulation, one of the above should be the reason for no warm air from the heater.

Answer: Not too much to go on, but here are a couple of things to eliminate before taking it to an electrical shop.

1st, pull the fuse pump fuse for overnight. When reinstalled in the morning and if the battery will start the car, then the fuel pump has been running overnight. That is usually caused by the oil pressure sender. Just replace it. This is the most likely culprit.

2nd, if above does not work, then pull both wires from the trunk light switch. That is a push pin mounted at the rear strut tower, drivers side, just in front on the trunk bulkhead.

If the battery continues to discharge overnight, then you should suspect the diode bridges in the alternator. They can allow charging when the engine is running, but may be a direct battery ground when it is not. That would take a good electrical shop to diagnosis.

It is also possible that the battery is becoming weaker over time, and is not charged enough during the infrequent use to maintain enough strength to start the engine. Remember, radio memory/clock, and ECM memory do put a light drain on the battery at all times.

Answer: Several things to check:

1. Have a load test done on the new battery to make sure it is not bad.

2. Lift hood and watch/listen to headlight motors to make sure they are not attempting to stay running. Crumbled drive pins can allow this to happen.

3. Open fuel door, remove cap and listen to make sure fuel pump is not running. A bad oil pressure sending unit can allow this to happen.

4. With voltmeter between battery negative post and ground, observe to see if any currant is moving. About .01-.03v should be all that is.

5. If more, remove alt energizer wire from alt stud. Alternators can discharge a battery when static and still charge them when running.

6. If drain is not found yet, leave voltmeter attached and remove fuses one at a time until shorted circuit is isolated.

7. If BAT fuse is blown, a shorted horn, cigarette lighter, or radio memory circuit will cause overhead lights to glow softly. These circuits will find a ground through them. Disconnect one at a time until lights stop glowing.

Answer: It will bolt up, and be strong enough, but will not have the same final drive ratio as what would have been in your 86 GT.

There are a "few" other things to do.
1. Add a trans cooler or change to an auto V6 radiator.
2. Remove the clutch hydraulic system and add the trans cooler lines.
3. Plug the dash firewall where the clutch master was.
4. Change the pedal assembly and make minor wiring splices.
5. Change the steering column.
6. Pull radio, HVAC controls, and center mounting skeleton.
7. Install shifter, lockout cable, shift cable and add light to shifter.
8. Drop engine/engine cradle and remove trans and axles.
9. Rewire engine with V6 auto harness, change water crossover pipe.
10 Change to V6 flywheel and bolt trans and axles back to engine/cradle.
11 Change pin location in C-500 for starter wire.
12 Reassemble car using an auto shift console!!

Answer: It is possible. However the '84 cabin wiring harness (C-500), which connects in the center of the engine compartment, only supports a single injector and is not compatible with ANY "V" engine (it would be against the exhaust manifold). If changed to an '85 or later (that connects behind the battery), then the '84 front and rear light harnesses are not compatible with the '85 cabin harness. Other problems are the cruise control system and the AC system.

Results are that ALL wiring in an '84, along with under car AC lines (if AC is wanted) and instrument cluster (if cruise control is wanted), should be changed to that of '85 or later.

Exceptions would be a Quad 4, or a carbureted, single wire distributor "V" engine, that does not need the cabin harness connection.

We install the 4.9's with total Cadillac control of the sequential fuel injection and emission systems through the later C-500 connection. Therefore, changing an '84 to accept any "V" engine with AC and cruise control, could require about $1800 in additional expense.

Although we have done a dozen or so "V" engines in 84's (mostly 2.8-3.4's), unless the car has EXTREME sentimental value, it is usually cost effective to begin with a later model.